We all have pores. In fact, you have around 5 million pores covering your body, 20,000 of which can be found on your face - and as Mean Girls fans will know, not even Regina George can escape these pesky things.
Pores get a pretty bad rep and are often attacked in the media - you see so many headlines stating how you can "shrink your pores" or even get rid of them, unfortunately, these are misleading statements and very much false advertisements.
In this blog post, I am going to debunk the fact from the fiction & share some top tips on how to look after them, discussing some interesting points along the way.
First things first, what are pores?
Pores are anatomical features that are completely normal! We have two types - one for sweat and one for oil. What you see is the exit of the sebaceous or sweat duct/ gland and the hair follicle. In this post, I will focus on the sebaceous ones which tend to be the larger ones you see around your T-zone that people find most bothersome.
First thing I will point out is that you cannot get rid of them and you also will notice them a lot more than anyone else - so please step away from the magnifying mirror!!
A longitudinal sectioning showing the sebaceous gland, hair follicle and opening of the pilosebacous filament (under a microscope).
The size of your pores is genetically determined - which is out of your control. Some influencing factors include:
Your sebum production - if you have oilier skin & higher sebum output, your pores tend to be larger
Your sex - males tend to have larger pores on average and also more sebum production
Your ethnicity also plays a part in your pore size - those from African or Indian heritage naturally have slightly larger pores than those who are Caucasian, Chinese or Japanese
As the pore is essentially a pathway for sebum to reach your skin surface, it is totally normal for sebum (oil) to be there - it does not mean that your skin is congested. Do not try and push this out - as you can provoke an inflammatory response and damage the surrounding tissue.
An interesting fact for our ladies is that during ovulation, studies have shown that your pore size is significantly larger (P = 0.008), due to increased oil production. The good news here is that the studies have shown this does not affect the severity of acne (thank goodness).
OK, so what can we do about them if anything?
My motto is prevention is better than cure, so our first point is to protect yourself from sun (UV) damage, which means wearing your SPF every day - even in the UK.
You see, excessive UV exposure really damages your skin - particularly two structural proteins: collagen & elastin. These support your skin keeping it tight + firm and when they are compromised, your skin will sag and the skin supporting the pore structure will be lax.
I know this image doesn't show pores, however it does highlight the skin laxity caused by decreased collagen and elastin.
Next up is smoking - this also reduces collagen & elastin production, causing the same issue as sun damage.
Makeup must also be non-comedogenic, i.e. non-pore clogging. You don't want any product to clog your pores and potentially stretch them out, as this can also lead to acne formation.
No hands!!! - as mentioned you don't want to pick and cause any inflammatory response and also your fingers are usually covered in bacteria. More than you would like to know.
Are there any treatments I can do?
We are going to start with retinoids - these are honestly a Godsend for so many skin concerns, including pores. They boost collagen & elastin production as well as help control excess sebum, whilst exfoliating. I know, a lot of benefits all at once.
New to skincare or have sensitive skin? Go for retinol instead of a retinoid to start with. These are less intense and there are many great drugstore options out there, which I have listed in my products section.
Next up ingredient-wise we are shining the spotlight on salicylic acid, which has numerous benefits and you can read more about in my dedicated blog post HERE.
AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) such as Glycolic acid also deserve to be mentioned, as they promote exfoliation of skin cells so can help keep pores from becoming overly clogged. More on glycolic acid can be found in my blog post HERE.
Protect your skin barrier function - I know I have mentioned quite a few active ingredients in this post, but don't go crazy. It is really important to start slow and not be too harsh, otherwise, you'll just upset the delicate balance your skin has. Make sure you use a moisturiser - one with ceramides is a great option and a gentle cleanser, especially in the winter months.
Masks - bentonite and kaolin clay ones used once a week can help with excess sebum production if your skin is on the oiler side.
What about in-clinic procedures?
A good medical-grade and high strength chemical peel can work absolute wonders. A salicylic acid one would be the most common here due to its lipophilic properties and reduced downtime compared to other acids, however, you will often find combination solutions that also include AHAs.
Some laser procedures can also stimulate collagen production - ideal if you have damage due to excess UV exposure.
Side note: chemical peels and laser treatments are carried out by professionals but do come with risks, so make sure you visit a reputable practitioner for them.
And finally, product recommendations:
Cleansers:
DermaQuest Peptide Glyco Cleanser
Neostrata - Mandelic Clarifying, PHA, Ultra Brightening
Sesderma ACGLICOLIC cream face wash
Dr Sams Cleanser
La Roche Posay (any - depending on personal preference and skin type)
CeraVe (any - depending on personal preference and skin type)
Murad (any - depending on personal preference and skin type)
Medik8
Moisturisers:
Dr Sams
La Roche (any - depending on personal preference and skin type)
CeraVe (any - depending on personal preference and skin type)
Neostrata (any - depending on personal preference and skin type)
Retinols:
SkinCeuticals
The Inkey List
Face Theory
Paula's Choice
Obagi
Salicylic acid:
CosRx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid
The Ordinary Salicylic acid 2%
Murad Blemish Control range
AHAs:
SkinCeuticals Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight
Dermalogica’s Rapid Reveal Peel
The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA
Sunday Riley's Travel Good Genes Lactic Acid Treatment
Dermalogica Gentle Cream Exfoliant
Neostrata exfoliation range
Obagi
Et voilà! I hope this post has helped you make peace with your pores - I promise they are not the enemy. Any questions let me know in the comments.
Lots of love,
Madeleine xoxo