Honestly when I think of blackheads whack-a-mole comes to mind - as soon as you get rid of one another magically appears. They are a total pain and I know something that many people struggle to deal with.
In this article, I will go over what they are and how best to tackle them, with some product recommendations at the end.
What exactly are they?
The technical term for them is "open comedones", but essentially they are clogged, open pores (sebaceous ducts) filled with sebum (oil) and dead skin cells.
Why are they darker in colour? Because when exposed to air, the pigment melanin oxidises, giving them their black/ brown appearance - it is not trapped dirt as many people think.
Side note - a lot of people easily mistake sebaceous filaments with blackheads, which are totally normal and not something that you should try and get rid of. Some people's are just a bit more visible than others which is absolutely OK.
What causes blackheads and why are some people more prone to them?
You are more likely to get blackheads if your skin is on the oilier side - which is mostly due to genetics - sigh.
High levels of testosterone - specifically 5-testosterone DHT - can also increase sebum production and play a role in the development of blackheads, which is why teenagers are more susceptible (as their hormones fly all around the place).
I know how tempting it can be to squeeze those spots, however in doing so you rupture the skin and compromise the barrier function - which is essential for preventing breakouts.
You can also derange that all important barrier function through peels & laser treatments which are too aggressive, so make sure you go to someone who knows their stuff.
Certain ingredients are also not your friend - watch out for oily pomades, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, and acetylated lanolin which can all clog pores and lead to pimple formation.
There are a million reasons to give up smoking, but if you care about your skin then it is a must - there is a direct link between smoking and comedone formation. Don't get me started on the wrinkle formation too.
Dietary factors - the evidence on this one is somewhat limited however there are links to acne from diets heavy in dairy and foods high on the glycemic index (GI). Even if diet does play a role, it is likely less significant than the other points mentioned.
How do I treat them?
Regular cleansing - 2x per day to remove excess sebum, dead skin cells and acne-causing bacteria
Use a topical salicylic acid in the AM
Use a topical retinoid in the PM
Opt for non-comedogenic products - skincare and makeup
Use SPF & moisturiser daily to maintain optimal skin barrier function
Addressing lifestyle factors: giving up smoking & switching to a lower GI & lower dairy product diet
Changing your pillowcase regularly - 2x a week
Product recommendations:
Cleansers
Salicylic acid
Et voilà! I hope you enjoyed - let me know your thoughts in the comments and if you try any of the products.
Lots of love,
Madeleine xoxo