This is a subject really close to my heart, as discovering this was probably one of the biggest game-changers for me in improving my skin.
As someone who had acne, I, like I am sure many others, had a cleanliness complex. I would wash my face all the time with the harshest "acne busting" washes, blindly hoping it would reduce the oiliness of my skin and make my acne go away. Sadly this was so far from reality and it took me ages to decode.
You see, the sebum (oil) your skin produces is necessary for healthy skin and protects it. Yes, some people do produce too much, but removing it all is definitely not the answer.
So, what makes up the "skin barrier"?
stratum corneum (outer layer of skin cells, formed of corneocytes)
lipids matrix - including ceramides, fatty acids & cholesterol
antimicrobial peptides
The cells and lipids are best described as bricks & mortar, respectively. They form a protective shield together. Remember, your skin is an organ and needs a defence system.
What is the exact function of the skin barrier?
Internally, your skin barrier helps you regulate temperature as well as prevent moisture loss - keeping you alive and so you don't shrivel up like a prune.
Externally, it protects you from all the nasties outside - these include allergens, harmful chemicals, infectious agents and it also protects you from some UV, among other things.
How do I know if my skin barrier function is intact?
Redness, irritation, inflammation, and a tight feeling are all signs of a compromised skin barrier. Some common skin conditions are also a result of, or exacerbated by a damaged barrier - these include acne, rosacea & hyperpigmentation/sun damage. A damaged barrier can be caused by a number of things, but the main culprits are: over washing, using too much/many acids & retinoids and UV damage. If you see any of these tell-tale signs, it is likely your skin barrier is damaged.
How can I look after my skin barrier?
The first thing you can do to protect your skin barrier is strip back your routine - often we can go a bit product crazy, including loads of actives such as acids and retinoids, which are fabulous but only in doses. If you feel your skin barrier is damaged, revert to using a gentle wash (without actives such as acids), a moisturiser and sunscreen during the day for a while, before you add actives back in. And when you do, make sure you start slowly.
HYPERPIGMENTATION/SUN DAMAGE - skin barrier is responsible for filtering UV rays, with a compromised function you're susceptible to more UV damage
Some ingredients you would want to include in your moisturiser & SPF are:
ceramides (waxy lipids which make up the skin barrier)
squalane (fatty acids, used as an emollient)
shea butter (moisturising occlusive)
glycerin (humectant)
sodium hyaluronate (the salt form of hyaluronic acid, which is water-soluble & able to penetrate deeper into the epidermis)
Remember with actives, sometimes less is more.
Common skin conditions linked to impaired skin barrier function:
ACNE - compromised skin barrier contributes to the inflammatory response
ROSACEA - compromised skin barrier contributes to the inflammatory response
HYPERPIGMENTATION/SUN DAMAGE - skin barrier is responsible for filtering UV rays, with compromised function you're susceptible to more UV damage
That is it! I hope you enjoyed this blog post and learnt a few practical tips - if you have any questions please let me know in the comments.
Lots of Love,
Madeleine xoxo
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