Before I dive into the different types of exfoliation - putting chemical and physical head to head - I want to take a second to explain why exfoliation is so important and why it *must* be a part of your skincare regime - below are my top three reasons:
FIRSTLY, for vanity purposes - exfoliation gives you that glow (I call it the post-sex glow without actually having sex).
SECONDLY, it helps remove excess dirt and oil, helping deal with and prevent breakouts.
THIRDLY, it helps your other products absorb into the skin and work better (there is no dead layer of skin getting in the way).
CHEMICAL EXFOLIATION
HOW IT WORKS + TYPES
As the name suggests, the upper layer of skin cells are removed via a chemical process/reaction, and I promise this is not as scary as it sounds!!
The most popular form of chemical exfoliation is from acids, but there is also enzymatic exfoliation - this is a gentler option for those with more sensitive skin.
Overall, chemical exfoliation takes the trophy over physical - as when done correctly it is far less irritating and less inflammatory, and you have the ability to go deeper into the epidermis and dermis.
Some popular products I have tried - left to right: The Ordinary 30% AHA 2% BHA peeling solution, Time Bomb Throwback Thursday Rapid Peel and Reveal, COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid.
Different types of acids and enzymes work in different ways, and they each have their own benefit depending on your skin concern. They can be used together or separately, in most cases, but you just have to make sure you don't overdo it and upset your skin barrier - make sure you follow the directions of the product and listen to your skin.
Alpha hydroxy acids, also known as AHAs are water-soluble acids that work by reducing cell adhesion (aka them sticking together). This results in the upper layer being gently removed. The most well-known types are: glycolic, lactic, malic and mandelic.
More on glycolic acid HERE & product link HERE
More on lactic acid HERE & product link HERE
Salicylic acid works by softening keratin (a structural protein of the skin). It helps breakouts due to the fact that it is oil soluble - so can penetrate the pore and prevent the build up of dead skin. It can be used alongside AHAs.
Azelaic acid is another popular acid and unlike the others, it is a dicarboxylic acid - more on this will come in a separate post!
Then there is enzymatic exfoliation - you may remember from school biology & chemistry, an enzyme is a protein that acts as a catalyst for a chemical reaction, speeding up the process. In the case for exfoliating your skin, they break down the protein keratin of the dead skin cells, to lift off that upper layer. You won't have a peeling effect with enzymatic exfoliation and it is very much surface level to reveal that baby-soft skin underneath.
My favourite enzyme exfoliator: MURAD Night Fix Enzyme Treatment
Fun fact: the enzyme bromelain found in pineapple is what makes your mouth feel prickly/tingly - it is literally eating you back!
Most enzymatic facial exfoliants use enzymes found in papaya, pictured above.
PHYSICAL EXFOLIATION
HOW IT WORKS + TYPES
This is a mechanical action - whereby you physically slough off the upper layer of skin cells.
The two main forms are: facial scrubs and cleansing brushes (such as Foreo or Clarisonic).
My Foreo mini LUNA 2 - slightly bleached from cleansing!
We'll start with cleansing brushes - these can be fabulous and give you a deeper cleanse than with your fingers, and honestly I just love the way they feel on my skin. However, not all facial brushes are created equal - in some cases the bristles can harbour bacteria, which is frankly the opposite of what we want as it can lead to breakouts. This is why I recommend a silicone-based cleansing brush, such as the Foreo ones, as these are 35x more hygienic than brushes with nylon bristles.
With the Foreo you also have a mini facial massage with the frequency vibrations - these help improve the microcirculation of the skin, perfect for mornings when you are not feeling so #fresh and need perking up. Additionally they last a lifetime - you just re-charge them via a USB port and you're good to go.
Next we are on to scrubs - which have been demonised in the skincare industry (hello St. Ives Apricot Scrub)! This is because certain physical exfoliants can actually cause microtears in the skin - including the crushed walnut that is used in St. Ives and also Kylie Jenner's facial scrub.
Having said that, not all scrubs are bad and they can have their place in your regime if you're a fan. Opt for an exfoliator where the particles are round and smooth to minimise irritation (but please avoid micro plastics to protect our oceans)! Jojoba micro exfoliators are a great option, as they are biodegradable - such as the ones in Medik8's pore refining scrub, which are also sustainably sourced.
NB - it is not advised to use a facial scrub if you suffer from inflammatory acne and psoriasis, (among other inflammatory skin conditions), as they can further irritate the skin - it is best to opt for a chemical exfoliant in this case.
The take home message here is that while exfoliation can have some fabulous benefits, moderation is key - you really don't want to over do it, as there can be too much of a good thing. Everyone's skin is different - you might need to exfoliate more or less than your favourite #skinfluencer. A good place to start is 2-3 times a week, and work your way up from there.
I hope this has helped you understand some of the differences between chemical and physical exfoliation - please let me know if you have any questions in the comments!
Lots of love,
Madeleine xoxo