When you hear the word "acid", moisturising doesn't exactly spring to mind - however
hyaluronic acid, also known as hyaluronan or HA, is renowned for just that.
Naturally produced by your body, hyaluronic acid is mainly present in the skin, but also in neural and connective tissues where it lubricates everything. It is a magnet for moisture - the technical term for this being a humectant (hyoo-meck-tant) and can hold up to 1000 times its weight in H2O (greedy I know).
For the quick bit of science, hyaluronic acid's chemical formula is: (C14H21NO11)n - n= any number, to form a polymer chain of identical units.
Read on for what skin issues it can help you with, how you can implement it into your routine & of course some product recommendations.
WHAT SKIN ISSUES CAN IT HELP WITH?
Sensitive skin/ redness (from compromised skin barrier function)
Dry & dehydrated skin
Dullness
Fine lines (exaggerated when skin is dehydrated)
Wound healing
HOW DOES IT WORK & WHAT DOES IT DO?
Hyaluronic acid's ability to retain so much water - 6 litres per gram to be exact - as well as strengthen the lipid barrier, helps maintain moisture levels in the skin and plump everything out, which is why we love it for improving the appearance of fine lines.
By keeping the epidermis (upper layer of skin) moist, hyaluronic acid provides a hydrated passage for the flow of nutrients, making it a vital component for overall skin health. Hyaluronic acid is also involved in many cell signalling pathways - I won’t go into the exact science of these but they are crucial for the re-epithelization process, which is why it is so good for wound healing! Hyaluronic acid also has a proven ability to reduce bacterial adhesion and biofilm formation - giving it some anti-bacterial properties too.
An interesting fact - when we are sunburnt (from UVB radiation) the cells in our dermis stop producing as much hyaluronic acid & increase its degradation, which is partially why sunburnt skin feels so dry and flakey. So, make sure you wear your sunscreen! For extra info on why sunscreen is vital to skin health, I have a post on the importance of SPF HERE.
Sadly as we age our levels of hyaluronic acid naturally decrease and this is also exacerbated by external factors such as smoking, pollution and of course UV (ultraviolet) damage.
IMAGE SHOT BY LILI MAE KINNEY (Instagram: justlmkplz)
HOW TO USE:
You can apply hyaluronic acid topically every day! Even for sensitive skin types.
It is very stable and pairs well with other ingredients - it's great to use after an exfoliating acid such as glycolic or lactic acid, to help protect the skin and support barrier function, as well as aid in restoring moisture levels. A popular way to add it into your routine is to add a few drops to your moisturiser for an extra boost.
One thing to note with hyaluronic acid is that it can be a very large molecule - it is a polymer, so made up of many identical units all linked together. This means it is worthwhile looking out for multi-weight hyaluronic acid products - with some smaller and some larger molecules, as these will penetrate and work on the epidermis at different depths.
You can also have hyaluronic acid products injected by a licensed practitioner - hyaluronic acid is actually a major component of most dermal fillers that you see on the market. It can be injected as a non-dermal filler too, to treat skin laxity and boost hydration - an example of this would be Profhilo.
AND FINALLY, PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS:
There are loads of fabulous hyaluronic acid products out there - I've just listed a few. You'll see hyaluronic acid is often paired with vitamin B5, an essential nutrient that plays an important role in repairing the skin barrier.
Medik8 - HYDRATE B5 (contains multi-weight hyaluronic acid) - a personal fav
L'Oreal - Filler Renew Hyaluronic Acid Anti-Wrinkle Serum (contains multi-weight hyaluronic acid)
Vichy - Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Booster
BEAUTY PIE Triple Hyaluronic Acid - also contains ceramides so a brilliant option for aiding skin barrier function
Pestle & Mortar Pure Hyaluronic Serum
La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Hyaluronic Acid Serum
SkinCeuticals - H.A Intensifier & Hydrating B5
Et voilà! Your guide to using hyaluronic acid. Let me know if you have any questions or if you try any of the products.
Lots of Love,
Madeleine xoxo