For my skincare newbies - humectants, emollients & occlusives are the 3 main moisturising agents you'll find in skincare. They all work differently & play an important part in keeping your skin oh-so-soft (& youthful 😉).
Read on for how they each work, how to layer them - if you're using them separately - & of course a few product recommendations.
HUMECTANTS (hyoo-meck-tants)
Humectants are molecules that attract & hold onto water - the most famous example in the skincare world is hyaluronic acid which can hold up to 1000 times its weight in H2O or 6 litres per gram (very greedy). Humectants are used in moisturisers as they strengthen the lipid barrier, keep everything moist & plump out your skin - which reduces the appearance of fine lines. They work by pulling water up through the deeper layers of the skin, to provide surface hydration - it is then important to layer with an emollient on top (discussed below), to minimise evaporation, particularly in dry/windy/hot conditions. Another really popular humectant is glycerin, as well as propylene glycol, honey, sorbitol and pathenol.
EMOLLIENTS (uh·mo·lee·uhnts)
Emollients are oils and lipid substances, which are used to mimic the skin's natural sebum (oil). They absorb into the skin & moisturise by "filling in the cracks" of the epidermis, soothing over and restoring the skin barrier - as mentioned above they also prevent water loss, so lock in hydration too. There is a wide range of emollients - you have butters, oils, esters, fatty acids and lipids, as well as silicones - but please note that they're not all created equally, some are incredibly comedogenic and lead to breakouts (such as coconut oil/butter) while others are totally fine to use on oily skin (such as shea oil/butter). Dimethicone is an example of a silicone that is often used in skincare to also provide a luxurious and silky feel - without being greasy and also reducing shine. Dimethicone is non-comedogenic, so it won't clog your pores or break you out and as it is synthetically produced, experts say there is less risk of allergen contamination.
OCCLUSIVES (uh-kloo-sivs)
Occlusives are thicker, oily/waxy substances, which prevent water evaporation by forming a physical barrier. By doing this they protect skin from external irritants and help support the skin barrier function (a big plus for reducing inflammation). Common occlusive examples are petroleum jelly, mineral oil, waxes (bee & carnuaba), lanolin and silicones, again notably dimethicone - or any ingredient ending in "cone".
NB - you wouldn't use an occlusive on its own on your skin - it is part of a product formulation. The exception would be lip products (hello Vaseline) where you would just use an occlusive - the skin on your lips is incredibly thin and doesn't have any sweat or sebaceous glands.
WHAT ABOUT LAYERING?
Most moisturisers on the market contain a combination of humectants, emollients and occlusives, so you don't have to worry about layering. But if you are someone who likes to have a multi-step routine or use these products separately then do so in the following order:
humectant
emollient
occlusive
SPF (if it is the morning)
Why? Think back to school chemistry - oil and water don't mix. So, if you add a water-based product on top, it won't be able to penetrate through the oil to work its magic on your skin, and will just evaporate :(
On the contrary, oils on top will seal in that moisture, so your humectant can pull moisture to the surface of the skin & it is blocked from evaporating - win-win if you ask me.
Product recommendations:
Sunday Riley Good Genes All-in-One Lactic Acid Treatment
CeraVe Moisturising Lotion
Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel
SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore
Murad Anti-aging Moisturiser SPF 30 PA +++
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Moisturiser
Et voila! I hope you have enjoyed and learned something new 💖 Any questions please pop them in the comments or send me a message!
Lots of Love,
Madeleine xoxo
*self care day is everyday when it comes to skin - remember, it is a marathon, not a sprint.